Friday, 26 September 2008

bye bye croatia

Sunday 21st Sept.. Happy birthday Brent!
Ston was a different place next morning, when bus loads of tourists arrived and gave it a nice atmospher. After a naughty breakfast in the upstairs apartment we headed up the medieval walls...the longest in Europe. Then off through the centre of the peninsula to Orebic, which lonely planet described as having the widest sandy beaches in S.Dalmatia. It was a glorious day and instead of enjoying the water, we spent all day looking a/ for the sandy beaches and b/ for the town centre...neither of which existed! Finally decided to find a campsite at 5pm. Arrived in coastal site full of Germans with Hunde und autocampers! We were directed down to the tent sites by the beach. This turned out to be a 10 minute hike down the steepest path youve ever seen! As for toilets...well none were to be seen! We eventually found a small toilet block in the hillside, but clearly the needs of over 54s would not be met by them. Luckily when we expressed our dissatisfaction with the one site down there, which was also on solid rock, we were redirected up the hill to a very nice spot near immaculate toilet blocks, which even catered for those wishing to wash their dogs! A quick supermarket stop to pick up wine and beer and a good evening was had when I finally beat brent at backgammon..happy birthday again. Lovely for Brent to get so many messages including a call from Andrew and Ruth, and good to see Jan back in coventy.. happy birthday to David too!

Mon 22nd Sept
Well would you believe it...no sooner had we got into bed than the howling winds started again...and not just from Brents stomach! Good job Brent had staked the tent down. To cover up the sound of the wind and the howling dogs ( not really, but there were a lot about) we plugged in to the mp3 player and had a bit of a sing. Then this morning when it was cloudy and a bit cooler we changed plans and instead of going to the beach we walked up the mountain to visit a very pretty franciscan monastery. We then took the ferry across to the medieval walled town of Korcula, on Korcula island. Had a picnic accompanied by a mangy cat and even mangier mad man...lovely! Actually the town was very beautiful and once upon a time Marco Polo was reputed to have been born there and a nearby restaurant said that he ater there and offered us the same quality food today... we declined! Managed to update the blog but bit worried about the connection, so the photos will have to wait. Tomorrow we plan to move to Dubrovnic and would love to find an apartment with wireless so that we can sort out flickr... we'll see. By the way thanks Simon for your tips and thank you to everyone else for your comments. We'll try to add more links so that you can see where we are.

Tues 23rd Sept
Lin here looking back to the last 2 days. It took a while for us to leave the campsite as our spot was right next to the chemical toilet and every camper van on the site seemed to need to empty their toilets, which meant blocking our way out with their vans!! After a coffee at the local Konzum (that's Croatian for supermarket by the way) we finally got out and on the road to Dubrovnik. This was another absolutely gorgeous drive. Navigating Dubrovnic however was not so pleasant and Brents stress levels were pretty high as he drove through narrow streets absolutely full of parked cars and traffic, with motor bikes coming at us from all directions! Nevertheless, after a short wait we managed to park right next to the walls of the old city and began our tour. Entering the city is quite a site. Steep steps down narrow stairs with tiles roofs all around. At the bottom a shiny street with wonderful buildings, including a palace and cathedral. Quite stunning ...the only down side was the amount of tourists. In fact, as we strolled along we bumped into a couple that we'd chatted to yesterday when we got the ferry to korkula. Had a bit of a chat with them, which was nice. We headed out of time to find somewhere to stay in Lapad, which turned out to be a very pleasant area, with a central pedestrianised walkway. Steep stairways lead to the apartment areas... hard work I can tell you! We found an apartment using the lonely planet guide. Very friendly people again. Felt quite tired, so had an early night..watched a bit of tele and read.

Wed 24th Sept

After unsuccessfully trialling the solar charger that we bought at Maplins before leaving, today we did the tour of the city walls of Dubrovnic. In the course of the war much of the city was bombed and the original roof tiles had to be replaced. Theyve done a fantastic job. I really like those red roofs, but about half way round Brent turned into a petulant schoolboy and I had to put up with that well known question: 'Are we nearly there yet?'
Things we noticed on the way around the walls:

- Cats: there is at least one cat at each corner – as we passed a school a girl was practising her singing and what we thought was a pretty little kitten seemed to be joining in! Upon closer inspection it turned out to be a stray kitten in big trouble – very sad to see. At another point 3 cats were asleep on huge sheets which were being used to cover a load of rubbish.

Rubbish- a/ lack of: all the towns we've visited have been immaculately clean, with very little sign of chewing gum or any other crap.
Rubbish – b/ whilst getting the impression of stunningly clean and pristine streets along the tourist route we also kept spotting boarded up doorways, behind which there was a stack of rubble. They,ve clearly done a great job of reconstruction and in order to get tourists in to help finance the operation are also covering up vast areas, still in need of renovation. Very interesting
Housing – although much of the city is a tourist trap, some areas are clearly lived in, with washing hanging over the streets. Quite a contrast and we've seen similar in Split and Zadar
Tourists – It was like being herded around the city at some points, and must be horrible in full season and English seems to be the dominant language

Decided to go back to the flat for lunch and a siesta, aided by sampling the lovely liqueur which our hosts outside Split had given us as a parting gift....lovely!
Brent here now. After an afternoon kip we headed out along the headland path which wound its way through wooded slopes passing by some very posh hotels with swimming pools near the beach. These must be where some of the many tourists we have seen must reside. Sat in a bar next to the beach watching a swimmer who must have been in training for a biatholon as he swam three times across the bay at full tilt. After a brief visiit to the supermarket to buy some ingredients for our evening meal we headed back to the apartment. Linda had a craving for meat so we picked up some pork. Cooking it was a bit tricky but I think I did a good job on the double electric hob making pork with peppers and mushrooms in a smoked cheese sauce --- yummy. Washed down with some local red wine. Unfortunately our plans to hit the local discos and bars disintegrated at this point. Another early night was had – will we ever come to terms with being over 50?
Observation on satellite TV. Two of the apartments have had cable TV. Is very interesting how all the TV formats are similar – Big Brother here and the ubiquitous talent programmes where people laugh at those who clearly havent any. Culture must be becoming similar due to mass media. On a positive side the local TV channel did show fairly recent movies regularly obviously Rupert Murdoch hasnt bought all the rights here yet.

Thursday 25th Sept
Brent here. Well we managed to get onto the car ferry which will take us back North to the Italian border. Got up early and said goodbye to our host. He even gave us his garage to park the car. Set off to catch the ferry realising we still had no ticket and not enough kuna but we are learning to live by the seat of our pants. So after driving three times around the one way system we managed to find an ATM, book the ticket and get on the ferry in the hour that was left. Ferry is very busy now – even though at first we thought it was empty! Cars came on first, then coaches, then foot passengers so is now crammed and we are on here till 7.00am tomorrow morning.

Monday, 22 September 2008

into southern Dalmatia

17th Sept
Lin here again after a perfect day. Jogged and tai chi'd b4 breakfast then off to Split. Things to note about Split:
it's full of ancient and very beautiful buildings
it has lots of shops for the rich
it gives a whole new meaning to Split Pees...costs 1 kuna ( about 15p) for a man to pee, but 4 kunas for a woman...how's that for sexual equality!
Came back and lay about on our little beach, reading...now don't be jealous. You know we deserve it! Brent now at the cooker enjoying the local brew. Fantastic.

Thursday 18th
Last night our host mentioned that the local church about 1 km away had been researched by some English bod, who believed that the body of the legendary Arthur was buried there. This morning we jogged straight passed it and got half way up a very steep hill b4 turning back after about 2km to discover the local churchyard. It was interesting: the dates 1750-1972 were at the entrance and the place was quite dilapidated, with overgrown graves with old artificial flowers. The oldest graves has black and white photos of the dead on the gravestones, whilst one was just a plain, tatty wooden cross... no sign of Arthur though. Guess we'll never know if this was the right place. Anyway we spent a lazy day sunbathing at the beach today. Got the bus into Split at 5.30 and foolishly stayed on past our stop to find the bus station. After a tour of the town, with no sign of the bus station we got off the bus and made our way back to town. Found out about car ferries, as we are thinking of getting one from Dubrovnik back to Rijeka to save the long drive. It'll be a 21 hour journey on the ferry for just over £100 and we think it'll be worth it. Only goes on Sundays and Thursdays though. Had a meal and a few beers in old town before heading home. Here are 2 photos of Split. The first is a statue of Gregorius of Nin ( sorry we didn't get there Peter!) Apparently is you touch his big toe it brings you luck. It certainly worked for us as after doing so we found our lovely little flat. The second shows a typical part of old town.

Friday 19th September
Brent here. Ready to move on again after a relaxing few days south of Split. Seems that we are getting into a sort of rhythm – knowing when our batteries are recharged. Planned on a short drive today further along the coast to Makarska. Slightly distracted from the beauty of the drive by a seriously low tyre. Stopped for a coffee thinking we would find a garage but they are few and far between so relieved when we arrived managed to get some air in at
Makarska. This proved to be a beautiful little harbour – though somewhat touristy.
Headed back north to find the nearest campsite as found in lonely planet guide. This at first seemed very empty and a bit spooky but we needed somewhere to rest our heads so pitched tent. On exploring the site it had quite a lot going for it – a hotel, apartments and lovely walks highlighted along the coast and up into mountains behind. Got the feeling it had probably been around since the Tito era – bracing walks and exercise for the socialist youth. Retired to bed early for an eventful night. Wind gradually picked up to gale force with tent flapping around all over the place. Fortunately this time had been able to peg it down sufficiently so it didnt blow away. I can safely say we both had a restless night !!

Saturday 20th September

Brent here again. Woke up to check around all the tent – wind still howling through the pine trees. Linda in a surprisingly good mood considering our disjointed sleep. We had planned to walk along the coast path to next village then maybe explore the mountains. Shortly after setting off we turned round to look at the view only to find billows of smoke behind us. The forest was well and truly ablaze. We rushed back to the tent amidst thick smoke, desperate to rescue our possessions and aware that at any minute the car could explode ..... only joking, but the fire was real and not far away so we did decide to pack up tent. We headed to Brele 5 km further north which is the Riveira of Central Dalmatia but has no space to park! Looking back along the coast to our campsite we could see the extent of the fire now. It had spread all the way up the mountain behind Makarska and the smoke was billowing out across to the nearest islands. Very sad. Dispite the unfolding tragedy our surroundings were stunning – clear turquoise waters backed by palm and pine trees and this lead to a rather surreal feeling. - should we stay or should we go ( now ). The coast road was blocked and we had concerns about the smoke if not the fire spreading to here. So we decided to head towards Dubrovnic using the mountain roads. Spectacular scenery but poor roads made this a slow journey. With traffic diverted this way the narrow roads were scary.

Linda taking over here...We finally arrived in Ston, on the isthmus ( there's a word for you to look up!) between the mainland and the peninsula of Peljesac ( and that's the definition) around 6pm. Ston has the longest medieval fortified wall in Europe and it was really something to behold. The place seemed a bit weird though. Locals a bit rowdy but the streets deserted. A bit like a cowboy ghost town. Nevertheless we were weary and hungry and lonely planet advised us that the best seafood in Croatia was here. So we asked about a room at the restaurant and got one above it. We celebrated Brent's birthday with a fantastic sea food supper and had a fantastic nights sleep.

Wednesday, 17 September 2008

Dalmatia continued

10th Sept
Drove to Plitvice national park, which was fab but very crowded. Turquoise waters with loads of fish. Climbed up to cave ....without Peter, who suffers from Vertigo & took a boat across one of the lakes.

11th Sept
Peter went off to Slibenek on bus.. had flat tire en route and had to change buses! Took double the time to get there. Al, Brent and i had quiet day. Headed into Zadar, updated blog and bought postcards. Went for a swim / snorkel back at 'our' beach.

12th Sept- my birthday
Drove to Palenka National Park. Steep rocky gorges were exhausting in high temperatures, so we didn't get to the mountain hut. Enjoyed watching climbers and found a nice beach for a swim after. Went to Nico's restaurant, recommended in Peter's book, for birthday meal. Brent didn't enjoy his pasta and his Northern thriftiness came out a bit too much. Found a bar afterwards with good live music, so had a good birthday bop.

13th... bye bye Peter and Alec. We had a fun week with glorious weather. Drove down the coast to Murter island, where we are staying on a cool campsite in pine forest beside the sea. Croatians seem very humourless to the point of seeming unfriendly....shame. Rained during night and disco some distance away was quite noisy.

14 Sept...
Duller and cooler but pleasant day for a rest. Walked into Tresno-village between mainland and island. I was desperate for a coffee and the toilet. Puzzled when no chain or visible means to flush the foresaid toilet even though there was a cistern. Led to some embarassment. Made a quick exit back to campsite. In afternoon set off for a walk from one end of island to the other – 5 miles in all. Wind was picking up all the time. The night was spent wondering whether the tent would blow away. This was made worse because pegs wouldnt hammer into rocky ground. In the end decided to anchor it to the ground with rocks.

15th Sept
Camping takes its toll on 55 year old back but early morning Tai Chi sorts it out. We head off in sunny weather to Krka National Park. Spectacular walk along waterfalls on different levels and finish off with a swim in turquoise blue waters at the foot of the falls. Visited old town of Sibernik. Picturesque narrow streets in lovely evening sunshine. Lin found carrying stuff was heavy...only to discover she'd picked up the menu from the pizzeria! Oh dear! Back at campsite Linda is thrilled to find phone to wish sister Shirl a Happy Birthday!

16th Sept
Lin here. It's 7.30 and we've managed to find a great little apartment outside of Split, right on the sea front. Very friendly family run place and very well equiped...have to say I think we need to learn how to barter as they were clearly delighted by our 35 euros a night offer...oh well...it's just not English is is? Before getting here we were 'attacked in town by the lovely Nena, who wanted us to have her apartment and really didn't like it when Brent said he'd like to look around a bit first...well done Brent. You did us proud!

Thursday, 11 September 2008

continuing travels

5th Sept..Camp Bled – Dalmatian coast
We drove the 40km into the Slovenian capital, Ljubljana and spent several hours here. We really liked it and again will return. Then we took the motorway down to the coast and followed the coast road towards our final destination, Zadar. We stopped at a small town called Crikvenica and the tourist office found us a B&B. Walked down into the town, where they were celebrating the pirate story we'd read about that day. There were fireworks from a pirate ship and a lovely atmosphere. B&B night terrible! Boiling hot and loud traffic.
Nice meal in town with very friendly waiter.

6th Sept—Crikvenica to Zadar
Saw campsites after Crikvenica where we'd have had better sleep...oh well! Beautiful coastal drive into Zadar, arriving about 3.30-4pm. Found the apartment in Diklo. Met Alec and Peter from plane and had a lovely meal down the road from the flat.

7th Sept.
We all swam in the sea first thing before doing a supermarket shop and having a very nice lunch on the balcony. Drove into Zadar pm and enjoyed a good nose around. The old walled town is a traffic free zone, which is very nice. The pavements are all shiny and there's a real cafe culture with a hot spot for internet access in the square near the tourist info. Back 'home' we took a siesta then Alec and Peter went for a snorkel / swim, Brent made a lovely pasta meal and I read...heaven! Lovely meal with great wine followed by a walk along the front b4 bed.

8th Sept
Went into Zadar again. Walked around the remains of the medieval town wall. Found a lovely airier, modern and spacious tourist information with cafe, gallery etc and live music in the evening. Took in the atmosphere of what seems like a Mediterranean port drinking in the warm sun and the cold drinks. Returned to apartment to freshen up before heading out to a local restaurant. Had a fish meal lovely first course, very expensive second course (which every one else enjoyed but my rochdale thriftiness thought was over the top price wise)

9th Sept
Planned to do the Island National Park today so set the alarms for 6am.( Thank to Simon for his comments ) Everyone woke up bleary eyed. Up and out by seven. Met two girls from Totonto who gave us some good travelling tips. Wine and food included for under £30 brill. Found a spot to swim on far side of one island when boat stopped for fish lunch. www.kornati.hr

Sunday, 7 September 2008

4th Sept
Started off on road to Saltzburg. A very pretty city. Found a small back street cafe and re-charged our batteries with some raviolli. Back to the car to polish off some more miles. Arrived early evening at a fantastic campsite in Bled. Reminded me of Lake District but emerald green waters.
1st Sept..Dover – Spa (Belgium)

Off ferry at 2.30 and on road after slight error in Dunkerque. Managed to get well into Belgium and found campsite near Spa, called Spa d'or. Too late to book in but managed to put little tent up just b4 dark. Cafe & bar unfortunately closed Mon and Tues so rustled together a snack and had early night.

2nd Sept.. Spa – St Geo ( Germany, on Rhine)
Both slept well and enjoyed a good shower before heading off to see Spa, which was al lovely town. Found supermarket and had picnic in pretty park. Left about midday and made way to Rhine Valley. Stopped briefly in Koblenz for a pee at the Station before arriving in St Geo about 6pm. Found a nice hotel on the front called Rhinehotel..original eh? Wandered the picturesque streets and found nice Italian restaurant. Had good pasta meal with lovely Heff? beer. Early to bed again.

3rd Sept.. St Geo -
Lovely German breakfast with lovely German welcome by gorgeous young man who enjoyed practising his English on us. Left St Geo by 10am ...on the road again. Long journey with full day of driving. Eventually reached the Alps...and found a campsite by a lake. Very busy but found time for a swim before having a picnic and our champagne. Lovely.

Monday, 1 September 2008

over 50's hit the road

we are on the ferry after an eventful journey down here. Finally packed up the h0use by 3.00pm.
Many thanks to Wendy and Dave for their help in cooking us a meal before we finally hit the road at 4.00pm. It was then a journey of closed roads (A52), standing traffic ( M11) and now what have i done --- all the letters are stretching out. will sstop here and try this stupid technology later (this is me not linda - she told me to say that)